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Din ciclul "Everest, pamint romanesc":

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Dear everestnews.com readers, this is my first report, my lap top was
sabotaged and now unable to boot. This year I am part of the fist
Romanian expedition to Mt. Everest, for those of you don't know, I was
born and lived in Romania for the firsy 25 years of my life. I was
selected to help out bassed on my previous five Everest expedition
and on my four consecutive summits since my first summit in1999. It
is imposible not to have difficlties in this kind of endevour, now
with the celebration of the 50th anyversary, many countries,
mountaineeing clubs, comercal expeditions, etc are poised here to
top what Tenzing and Hillary did 50years ago. Lots of high teck
tents, gear, and not so teck climbers, trekkers, wonderers. The
frustration with mountains is allways expected, for me the relation
with Sagarmatha so far is good, it is something rather comic what
frustrates me and my colegues here; we have to keep our mouths shut
and our fingers clear of any lap top, information ab!
>out ourselves to the world is prohibited by shady lucrative contracts
between our leader David Neacsu and a multi million dollar bankrupt TV
station from Romania (Pro TV), this station was suppose to broadcast
live images about our exp. at least from BC. Unable to get proper
permits from the Chinese Gov. they were left wth almost a week in
the border town of Kodari then return to Kathmandu where they try to
patch things over from there. Now we send video tapes from ABC or
higher by yak herders, trekkers, climbers, etc towards Katmandu where
after perhaps more than a week our Pro TV will tell a story which in
fact is a week old story, and we have to shut up. Now wth the pulmonary
virus outbreak in China, and other parts of Asia the Chinese Gov is
thinking ofclosing the border, as far as I am concern so be it, I
suspect
some sort of medical carantine when entering Nepal or by entering the
United States. The people in Romania are starving for informations
about their nationals and yet they lern history not present, the
famillies are lured by dayly speaches from a leader who spend all his
time in BC and never had the prvilege to see ABC, not to say that he
didn't try it twice. At this moment our members are properly aclimaised,
we went at least 3 times to camp one and some went even higher.
The following are present here at ABC (6400m) Lucian Bogdan, Sorin
Smilovici, Fane, Mihai Sima, Lakpa Sherpa, Doni Sherpa, and myself
George Dijmarescu, just went to BC for better food and I hope for
short time Marius Gane and Coco Galescu. All this climbers are reported
in good conditions and are ready for summit. I am sure their families
will be glad to hear they are the ones who will represent their country,
after all this is a Gov. sponsored expedition. I wil like to say a few
words about our heart of the expedition, sherpa, and I will begin with
their leader (sirdar)- Nima Gombu Sherpa, for many he need no
introduction, eight time Everest summiter and with 16 expeditions only
to Everest, he is a man I want to be like. Gombu and I spent almost five
months tohether in the US last year and I learn so much from him, here
he hauled 25kg to camp one with ease without any management. The world
will hear about this climber for many years to come. Second in comand
and with more experience on this part of the mountain, Dawa Nuru of
Thame, I met Dawa in 1998 and he is my favorite sherpa and human beein,
about him and because is so much to say including how he just resqued
our tent full with equipment from a 20m crevase and the video clip
accompany it in the next report. Also an emotional report of how our
climber Fane jumped paragliding for almost 30 minutes from the North
Col, yes he landed safe near ABC, to mention that the French jump
from the summit in 2001 lasted only 11 min. I conclude by encouraging
at least these climbers famillies to write thm at this address giving
them your moral support, we all needed.

Untill next time-

G. Dijmarescu
and the team on the East Rongbuk Glacier of Everest at 6400m

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