Sectia Universitara Cluj a Clubului Alpin Roman va invita marti 22 mai,
la ora 20 in Amf. George Bilascu aflat langa Casa de Cultura a
Studentilor (intrarea pe langa Clubul Karma) sa vedeti alte doua filme
relaizate de si cu "actori" celebri:
1 ". Lynn Hill- Free Climbing The Nose "19 min. Ea a fost prima
persoana care a urcat free The Nose!!!!
2. "Climbing in Beauty" - 35 min despre ce inseamna alpinismul in
Yosemite. Filmul e realizat de Ron Kauk, in colaborare cu Lynn Hill si
alti multi catzaratori si surprinde latura artistica a locului si a
catzaratului- film adus de colega noastra Diana Silaghi care l-a
achizitionat...de la fatza locului.
Va redau mai jos cateva detalii:
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Lynn Hill
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Hill#searchInput>
*Lynn Hill* (born 1961) is a United Stated climber, known as a topsport
climber of the 1980s and famous for making the first free ascentof
the Nose Route on Yosemite's El Capitan.
Originally from Detroit, Michigan, she grew up in southern California.
Hill started climbing as a 14 year old on a climbing trip with her
sister and her sister's fianc. During the early 1980s she became part
of the climbing community centered around Camp Four in Yosemite Valley.
She participated in various television productions, such as being a
candidate in the TV show /Survival of the Fittest/.
In 1979, Lynn Hill completed one of many impressive landmarks in her
career by becoming the first woman to establish a 5.12+/5.13, Ophir
Broke in Ophir, Colorado. In 1984 at the Gunks she performed one of her
most impressive leads, the onsight first ascent of Yellow Crack
5.12R/X. From1986 to 1992 Lynn Hill was one of the world's top sport
climbers, winning over 30 international titles, including five victories
at the Arko Rock Master. In 1991, she set another landmark by becoming
the first woman to redpoint a consensus 5.14, Masse Critique in
Cimai, France.
After ending her career as a professional competitive climber, Hill went
back to traditional rock climbing. In 1993, together with her partner
Brooke Sandahl, she became the first person, male or female, tofree
climb The Nose, a famous route onEl Capitan in Yosemite Valley. In 1994
she upped the ante, by becoming the first to free climb the entire route
in a single 24 hour period. Lynn Hill's original climbing grade for the
"Free Nose" was 5.13b. The Free Nose and the Free Nose in a day remained
unrepeated over 10 years after Hill's first ascents - despite numerous
attempts by some of the best big wall climbers in the world. This has
prompted some to suggest a grade of at least5.14a may be more accurate,
and cements the Free Nose ascents as two of the most impressive
achievements in climbing history. Then, on Oct 14, 2005, the team
of Caldwell and Rodden also freed the /Nose/, and on Oct 16,
2005, Caldwell freed it in less than 12 hours.
Lynn Hill's impressive list of achievements span decades, age groups,
climbing styles and gender, establishing Hill as one of history's
foremost free climbers.
In 1988 Lynn married fellow Gunks climberRuss Raffa in a ceremony that
featured the bride and groom dangling from the top of the cliffs in full
wedding finery. Their marriage ended in 1991.
On April 14th 2003, Lynn and partner Brad Lynch gave birth to a son, Owen.
Hill is currently a sponsored athlete for the /Patagonia/ gear and
clothing company.
In 2005 Lynn started offering climbing camps in 5 locations in the
United States, with plans for more in 2006.
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Diana Silaghi: am avut marea sansa sa prind un program Work and Travel
peste vara in Yosemite National Park, in America, intamplare care mi-a
schimbat mult de tot viata. Sunt foarte multe de spus despre ce a
insemnat Yosemite pentru mine si lucrurile pe care le-am invata despre
munte si adevaratele valente acolo, insa pe parcurs as putea sa revin la
ele.
Am am avut noroc de niste oameni si catzaratori extraordinari, nu
doar americani, ci si cehi, polonezi, sloveni, sud americani care erau
acolo pentru munte in primul rand, si nu pentru a aduna avere peste vara
in America. Dintre americani, erau multi care fugisera de nebunia din
orase, care inainte aveau case pe malul oceanului Pacific si o situatie
materiale foarte buna, dar lasasera totul in spate pentru ca isi
dadusera seama ca nu sunt nefericiti, si acum traiau cu chirie, intr-o
cabanutza de 7 metrii patrati, aveau un job simplu, intr-un restaurant
sau magazin local si le ardeau ochii de pofta de viata; in fiecare seara
cantau la chitara langa o cutie de bere cu pritenii si parca toata lumea
era a lor. De atunci pana acum, eu personal nu am mai cunoscut oameni
mai fericiti, si ma bucur ca am vazut ca se poate.
Bineinteles, cum era Yosemite, am avut ocazia sa cunosc si nume
grele in acest sens, cum ar fi Ron Kauk, Lynn Hill (de la care am si
autograf pe cartea ei autobiografica), Steph Devis, Dean Potter, fratii
bavarezi Huber (Alex si Thomas) si bulgarul Ivo Ninov care toata ziua
erau pe perete, si din cand in cand faceau cate un slide show pentru
turisti, intr-un amfiteatru in aer liber. M-a impresionat in mod
deosebit Ron Kauk, catzaratorul care l-a dublat pe Tom Cruise in Mission
Impossible II, pentru apropierea lui de natura si felul lui de a vorbi.
La origini, el este american nativ, si parca se simte o comuniune
puternica intre el si natura. Imi amintesc ca il vedeam adesea pe
traseele montane cu un sac dupa el, in care aduna toata resturile lasate
de turistii nepasatori.....
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Va asteptam.
Dinu Mititeanu
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